> Care
The most common
way to keep semi-aquatic turtles in captivity is in an aquarium.
For many species, this works well, if you keep in mind the
specific turtle and how it lives normally. There are a number of
basics that are common to water turtle setups. The aquarium should
be large enough to give the turtle adequate swimming room in both
length and depth. Only juveniles can be kept in small aquariums,
and they will outgrow them, so you might as well start with a
bigger tank to save money and time! Adult sliders, for example,
require a very large aquarium, especially if breeding is desired.
The water level should be deeper than the turtle is wide -
shallower water may prevent the turtle from righting itself if it
flips over, a possibly fatal situation. There should be no place
underwater in the tank where the turtle could get wedged in such a
way that it cannot get to the surface to breathe.
The aquarium does not require decorations, but a land area should
be provided where the turtle can haul out and dry off. Worn
driftwood or smooth flat rocks work well, as they will be the
least likely to rub or scratch the turtle's shell as it climbs out
of the water. Position a spotlight over the area to simulate the
sun, allowing the turtle to bask. A fully submersible water heater
helps keep the water at a reasonable temperature year-round - from
75 to 85 degrees for many chelonians. Most turtles do very well
with this minimal setup: a large, deep, undecorated, heated
aquarium with a spotlight over a flat rock on which they can dry
off and sun themselves. However, other equipment makes things
easier for both the turtle-keeper and the turtle. For example, a
timer for the light is helpful, while a water filter will keep the
water clear of larger debris and increase the time between water
changes.
Once you have decided on the kind of turtle, designed a habitat,
and set it up appropriately, it is time to acquire the turtle.
Starting with a captive-bred chelonian gives the novice
turtle-keeper the greatest chance for success. Captive-born
animals have been acclimated since birth to the presence of
humans. This means that they are much less likely to be stressed
by people and captive conditions, and stress is often a
contributing factor in the death of wild-caught reptiles.
Captive-born turtles are also less likely to be heavily
parasitized, as they probably have not encountered as many
infectious organisms as their counterparts in the wild. However,
do not expect a captive-born animal to be free of parasites - they
can be picked up from their habitats and from food items! Finally,
buying captive-born turtles reduces stress on possibly endangered
native populations.
Turtles can be obtained from many different sources. Professional
and amateur breeders are increasing in number, making captive-bred
turtles more readily available. These breeders often advertise in
the various reptile-oriented magazines and in the classifieds
sections of the larger herpetological society newsletters. These
societies are another good source of turtles. In addition to
providing the chance to meet local breeders, many societies have
rescue programs for reptiles. Often you can adopt semi-aquatic
turtles (especially red-eared sliders) for free or for a small
fee. Adoptions help the turtle, your wallet, and the herp society,
and I highly recommend it as an option. Reptile dealers usually
have many of the more common turtle species available, and will
ship them to the airport nearest you. These dealers carry a mix of
wild-caught and captive-born individuals; the ratio varies from
dealer to dealer. Finally, pet stores sometimes have turtles for
sale - usually these are wild-caught adult turtles. Pet stores
rarely carry hatchling turtles, as Federal law prohibits the sale
of turtles with a shell length of less than four inches. The law
was enacted in the early 1970's to prevent the widespread sale of
hatchling red-eared sliders, due to fear of Salmonella poisoning
through mis-handling of the turtles.
If possible, examine a number of turtles before deciding which one
to purchase. Healthy semi-aquatic turtles have clear, bright eyes
that are neither protruding nor sunken. The nostrils should be
clear of any debris, and the turtle's breathing should be silent.
When picking up the animal, take note of how it holds its head and
legs. The turtle should be able to support the weight of its head,
while its legs should not hang down limply. Most chelonians react
swiftly to sudden motions or to being picked up, although this may
depend on how tame the turtle has become. Finally, ask to feed the
turtle; most healthy water turtles seem to be perpetually hungry!
The first thing a newly acquired turtle should receive is a
thorough inspection by a veterinarian. Even if the turtle appears
totally healthy, a checkup will make sure that no parasites are
lurking undetected. Also, a visit to the vet with a healthy turtle
allows the turtle-keeper a chance to inspect the vet, too. It is
much better to learn that the vet you've chosen isn't comfortable
with reptiles when your turtle is healthy than to discover that
fact during a life-threatening emergency! Finally, the initial
visit gives the vet a chance to see the turtle when healthy; this
knowledge can be invaluable later if the turtle becomes ill.
New turtles should be left alone for a while, to allow them to
become acclimated to their new home. They should be fed every
other day, in quantities that can be consumed in a few minutes.
Overfeeding leads to too-rapid growth and obesity, both
potentially harmful to your turtle. Depending on the species, a
varied diet of vegetables, insects and earthworms should be
provided. Alternately, a prepared food, such as Tetra's ReptoMin
or Wardley's Reptile Ten, can be offered. Feeding turtles in a
separate container reduces the amount of food debris in the water,
increasing the time between water changes.
This article can only give potential turtle-keepers a push in the
right direction. Further reading and preparation will greatly
increase your chances of success. Potential keepers should ask
themselves some tough questions before obtaining a turtle. Are you
willing to do the proper research to decide which turtle would be
appropriate? Can you provide the correct care and habitat for that
turtle? Will you be able to care for the turtle for years, perhaps
decades, to come? If the answers to these questions are
"yes", then turtle-keeping can provide you with many
years of enjoyment.
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